When I woke up on Sunday the sky was iron. Clouds were everywhere, waves of gray and white, not a speck of blue to be seen.
“Oh no,” I thought to myself. I was accompanying our North Fork tour, a 23-mile ride designed to introduce bicyclists to the scenic North Fork of Long Island. One of the riders had sent me an email earlier in the week asking if the ride was rain or shine. “It’s supposed to be a beautiful day,” I wrote back. Confident in the predictions made by NY1 and weather.com, I refused to admit the possibility of rain and continued prepping for the ride.
Although I had ridden the route three times before (twice engineering the ride and once with a group), I was looking forward to this last tour of the season. It was going to be a big group and everyone had been incredibly accepting of LIRR’s cancellation of its Mattituck train and were flexible about having to take the jitney or drive out. A nice ride with a nice group . . . what could be nicer?
We were all on bikes and ready to go by 12:15 on Sunday. One of our guests told me that her iPhone predicted sun by 1pm.
Making our way out of Mattituck, across 48 and onto Oregon Rd. was much easier than I had expected with a group this size. Everyone was about the same skill level and all were attentive and cooperative. We didn’t have any spandex jackrabbits who were more interested in clocking mileage than seeing the sites we’d selected.
We stopped at Sherwood House Winery first, handed out our locavore picnics, and settled at the tables scattered around the fire pit. The merlot grapes hadn’t been harvested yet, so the vines still looked full and robust. I’ll admit I’m a little bit of a wine snob. I lived in northern California where the quality of wines one finds in the supermarket is better than the what one usually finds on the North Fork. But I had tried Sherwood House’s cabernet franc, liked it, and given the delightful atmosphere of the French-style outdoor tasting room, it earned a place on our tour.
The guests tried a steel-aged chardonnay and a merlot. A few bought wine, which was carefully tucked into the bed of our sag truck. Now that everyone had eaten, drank a little, and enjoyed the view over the vines, it was time to move on. Plus, the sun was starting to peek out. The iPhone weather app was on the money.
The next part of our route led past bucolic farms, potato fields, even a vast expanse of sunflowers. Hurricane Irene had taken her toll on the sunflowers. All their giant heads were bowed, but their faded beauty was still recognizable. We crossed 48 again (at that point a divided highway) and rode along the wide shoulder at a healthy clip everyone could manage.
Catapano’s Goat Farm was our second stop. I remember when Catapano’s was a tiny place with just a few goats. I watched it grow until it outgrew it’s first location and relocated to where it is now.
There is a small shop with a large selection of goat milk products and a vast array of flavored (and plain) goat cheeses. My favorite is the lemon-pepper (which gets consistent raves from our guests) and I never leave there without a chunk or two of the goat fudge, the taste of which falls somewhere between chocolate and dulce de leche. Yum.
We bought a couple of different cheeses as a snack for later, let everyone who wanted to say “hi” to the goats, got back on our bikes, and moved on.
The North Fork of Long Island, unlike the South Fork, was carved out by a glacier during the last ice age. The North Fork is undulating and rocky, with lots of inlets and covers. The South Fork, in contrast, is sandy and flat.
We rode for a few miles on these gently undulating hills until we reach Horton’s Lighthouse. The lighthouse sits back from a cliff facing Long Island Sound and the southern shore of Connecticut. The views are beautiful. There’s a long staircase that goes down to a lovely beach full of pebbles and giant boulders that I’ve been climbing since I was a kid. Several guests went down the long wooden staircase, enjoyed the view, collected some rocks, and headed back up when they were ready.
A few wandered over to the lighthouse, closed for the season, but beautiful in the way all lighthouses are beautiful. A beacon shows one where to go (or not to go) and therefore offers reassurance. Maybe that’s what makes them all beautiful; maybe it’s their proximity to water. In any event, this lighthouse, too, is beautiful.
Mounted up again, we started going south, crossing the fork. It was autumn, after all, so we stopped at Krupski’s farmstand, which was so loaded with pumpkins it looked like an orange wonderland. It was the perfect photo op and we took lots of pictures of guests with pumpkins, gourds, and squashes.
A little further down the road we stopped at Pugliese Vineyards. We pulled out the goat cheese and the extra baguettes from our picnic supplier. Everyone was ready for a snack and the goat cheese was so delicious that it disappeared remarkably quickly. Those guests who wanted to tasted a few more wines and purchased a few more bottles. We sat at tables next to a pond occupied by giant koi with a great blue heron posing at its edge.
I liked that this particular tour group was interested in the history behind the Cutchogue Historic Buildings, our next stop. The fact that Parker Wickham, the first large landowner in the area in the 17th century and whose house stands to this day in the common, still has descendants in the area fascinates me. The North Fork feels more like New England than New York. Peter Wickham’s house would fit in perfectly in Salem, Mass.
The next part of our ride took us to Peconic Bay, the south side of the North Fork. We stopped at a spot overlooking Robin’s Island, with beaches in front of us, salt marsh behind us. It was the golden hour and everything was bathed in beautiful light. Everyone just sort of stood, chatting, enjoying the view, the weather, the fact that this was the perfect way to spend an autumn Sunday.
On our way again, we continued along Peconic Bay, passing one field filled with more Canada geese than I’d ever seen before. We made our way to the Mattituck train station, and suggested to our guests that they take a stroll along quaint Love Lane before biking the last mile or so to where the jitney would pick up those who were riding it and where the others had left their cars. It would be a few hours until they got back to the city. Having a snack in hand seemed like a good idea.
Everyone said they’d had a wonderful time. Several wanted to try our tours in New York City. As always, our tour of Central Park seemed to have the greatest appeal, but many were intrigued by the idea of riding across the Brooklyn Bridge and exploring Brooklyn’s neighborhoods.
As far as the North Fork tour goes, we may be done for this season, but we’ve got April and May dates already loaded for next spring and even have a few bookings for them. Spring will be a different experience, but it will be just as wonderful.